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Stihl chain saws have a choke that makes cold starting easier, but you have to use it properly. When you close the choke, the carburetor sprays extra fuel into the combustion chamber when you pull the starter. If the engine doesn't start on the first three or four pulls, the fuel and air mixture becomes fuel rich, and if you continue to pull the starter while the choke is closed, there is too much fuel to ignite and the engine floods. You can simply wait for the fuel to drain, but there is a faster way to clear the engine.

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How to Unflood a STIHL Chain Saw. Stihl chain saws have a choke that makes cold starting easier, but you have to use it properly. When you close the choke, the carburetor sprays extra fuel into the combustion chamber when you pull the starter. If the engine doesn't start on the first three or four pulls, the fuel and air mixture becomes fuel rich. Why is my Stihl MS250 chainsaw not getting oil to the bar and chain? How do I remove a centrifugal clutch from a horizontal engine? Why do my weedeater and chainsaw only run on choke or with the gas I spray in the carburetor? Now it's flooded and won't start. Easy way to un flood it and get back to work.This applies to. Jul 17, 2015  In this video I show why a Stihl 026 chainsaw kept flooding itself and how to repair it. You might be surprised to find out what was causing it! Air filter is part #1121 120 1612 from STIHL Follow.

TipWhen cold starting a Stihl chain saw, move the master control lever to the half-choke position after the fourth attempt to start it to avoid flooding the engine. Move the lever to the minimum choke position as soon as the saw starts.Removing the air filter, spraying starting fluid into the carburetor and pulling the starting rope is another quick way to clear out the engine.

Starting fluid creates a leaner fuel mixture that ignites more easily, and the operation of the engine clears out the combustion chamber automatically.

Many 2-cycle engines have problems and are sent to the junk yard before their time. Typical problems include hard starting, rough running, a need to adjust the carburetor during use to keep the engine from stalling, a need to rev the engine to keep it from dying, and not starting at all. I will assume the user knows to replace the spark plug regularly, to use fresh fuel, and to replace or clean the air filter. With time and normal vibration, the screws that seal the crankcase from air leaks loosen just a little and air gets into the engine through leaks in the crankcase gaskets. First check the mounting screws for the carburetor and tighten them.

Then go to the screws that hold the cylinder head to the crankcase body and those that cover the end where the crankshaft comes out of the engine. See the yellow circles on this photo of a weed whacker engine. If any of these screws loosen as little as a quarter of a turn air begins to leak into the engine and the fuel/air mixture either is not pushed into the engine on the piston's downstroke or it becomes too lean for the engine to run by pulling in extra air during the piston's upstroke. After about ten years of use, no amount of tightening on these screws will make a dead engine run. Chances are the gaskets have become hardened beyond their ability to seal the engine. Dismantle the engine completely and install new gaskets. You may not be able to buy the proper gaskets, but you can buy a sheet of gasket material.

Use the old gaskets or the engine castings as a pattern to cut new gaskets. Your engine will run like new again.

Remove the muffler. The exhaust ports are under it. In time carbon residue from the burned oil in the fuel mixture begins to close off the exhaust ports. An engine is an air pump. What cannot get out blocks what needs to get in. Move the piston to the downstroke position (most distant position away from the spark plug) and knock off carbon deposits with a screwdriver.

Turn the engine over by hand a few times to blow the carbon granules out of the engine. Once I used our small 2-cycle garden tiller. After ten minutes the engine siezed and stopped. I had mixed 2-cycle oil with the gasoline, but it was old by the time I was using it. I found advice on the Internet that said to let the engine cool.

Then use a wrench with a long handle to slowly turn the engine over. Turn in the same direction, not back and forth. That engine still works very well, although I am sure it suffered a little.

Lesson learned: always use freshly mixed fuel. When a gasoline engine of any kind will sit unused for any length of time, drain the fuel from the tank and run the engine until all remaining fuel in the system has been burned through the engine. This prevents gums and varnishes from closing off small openings. Your cultivator looks like a weed trimmer engine mounted on a cultivator frame. I have a weed trimmer about the same size, and it can be started with an electric drill motor, but the electric motor must be a specified minimum speed and horsepower or the cultivator engine does not turn fast enough to start. I do not think your carburetor has a float, but is a diaphragm type. Still, it would be good to know fuel is flowing freely through the fuel line up to the carburetor.

You also want to be certain there are no air leaks in the gaskets between the engine halves or between the carburetor and the engine. In my experience, gaskets are no longer pliable enough to seal properly after ten years. I am guessing 15yo means 15 years old? Are the high and low idle jets properly set and free of dirt in the seats of the jets? Does the engine start briefly when you spray ether starting fluid into the air intake? Hey Phil B, thanks for the quick response. From what I have discovered, the MM55 motor was used on quite a few Stihl tools.

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I discovered this on a UK website, from which, I have ordered 2 gasket sets. The website is layed out pretty well and they will give you a nice Parts Break Down diagram for every part of the eingine. They supply parts for many brands and even the old McCulloch chainsaws. Anyway if anyone needs engine gaskets or other parts for the MM55, I would definitely give the guys a try. Part # 4140 007 1050 - Stihl Set of gaskets Back to my problem, it was my gaskets, they were dryed out and done for. The MM55 is 15 years old yes. The carb I put on was new and was working.

However, when I started to use the drill to start it, I noticed where my leaks were and there were more than one. So not only did I order two sets of gaskets, but I ordered another engine as well. So,we shall see. If any of the instructables subscribers are tired of trying to figure out what's what on Ebay, I would highly suggest, they check out. Your list of engines should be very helpful to others in the future, as well as your link to parts. A few years ago we owned and used the 1989 vintage Ryan weed trimmer in my photos for this Instructable.

After ten years I had air leak problems and replaced the gaskets. I did not even try to find a gasket set for that relatively unknown brand, but purchased a roll of gasket material at an auto parts store. Then I made my own gaskets. I did not use a ball peen hammer to cut them against the original parts as I once saw my father do with cast iron parts many years ago, but used an X-Acto knife and a small scissors. We used that machine for a dozen more years before we passed it on to someone else because we were moving and believed we would never again need a weed trimmer.

(Last year I had to go out and buy a new weed trimmer because we moved again and now need a weed trimmer again.) Thank you for the report. I think you will be pleased at the difference new gaskets make.

It sounds like a fuel system problem. I found an owner’s manual for a 900 Watt Pulsar generator at the Lowe’s web page. Did you open the air vent switch on the fuel cap before starting? Air must be able to get back into the gas tank to replace the gasoline running out of the tank through the fuel line as the engine runs. If air cannot get back into the gas tank, fuel will stop flowing out and the engine will die after running for a short time. The troubleshooting guide in the Pulsar manual also suggests a dirty fuel filter or air filter as causes of your problem. I assume you are using fresh fuel (less than six weeks old).

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That sounds obvious, but a friend brought his Husqvarna chain saw and wanted me to determine why it would not start. His fuel had been mixed and stored on a shelf for over a year! The saw ran great with fresh fuel.

If you had old fuel in the tank, a new fuel filter might be a good idea. I am glad you are making progress. The illustration I saw in the electronic manual showed a two position “switch” on top of the fill cap for the fuel tank. An easy test for fuel tank venting is to run the engine for a few minutes, stop it, and unscrew the fill cap. If you sense a rush of sir into the tank when you crack the cap open, it is not venting properly. My son-in-law has a small generator and it is not Pulsar, but it also has a vent open/close switch on the fuel fill cap.

I suppose those sre to keep vapors from getting into the atmosphere. This is a question regarding 2-cycle fuel. I made 2 mistakes as follows: Mistake #1: Without realizing what I was doing I added approximately 1 quart of pure gasoline (no ethanol) to approximately a 1 gallon mixture of 2-cycle oil and pure gas at 50:1 ratio. Mistake #2: After realizing Mistake #1 I thought 'okay, I'll just add a small amount of oil to the mixture.' Without thinking I picked up a bottle of SAE30 and added maybe one ounce to the above described mixture.

I now have maybe a little more than a gallon of this mixture. Am I okay in running this in a 2-cycle engine or am I better advised to just discard the mixture somewhere that accepts gasoline? Nick, I was not getting e-mail notificstions of comments, but Instructables has fixed the problem. So, I did not see your questions earlier.

Could your air cleaner be blocked? The engine would be as if the choke is fully engaged and would flood easily.

Try starting the engine with the air cleaner removed and see if that makes a difference. A couple of moves ago we gsve away the weed trimmer in the photos, but discovered we need one again and bought a Troy-bilt TB35EC a few months ago. Any problems with it have been due to a lean condition. I have not yet seen it flood. Customer reviews on it complain about hard starting after a season, maybe sooner.

I have found screws loosen on it easily, including two on the back for the JumpStart power starter feature, and the loose screws allow too much air into the engine. I am not a small engine mechanic by training or by trade. Is the fuel tank elevated above the combustion chamber? I am wondering if the floating needle activated by the metering valve is not sealing and fuel can flow through by gravity. That might mean you need a new metering diaphragm.

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A plugged vent hole in the fuel tank cap usually stops the flow of fuel because air cannot get back into the tank to replace fuel leaving the tank. I recently read that more and more repair shops do not bother with diagnosing a carburetor problem, but simply replace the carburetor with a new one. If you can match up a replacement carburetor, the orice of a new one is often less than $15 or $20. Hi Phil,I have an Echo leaf blower. It runs beautifully for about 5 seconds, but then fails to develop full power. I'm new to this problem.

Do you have a diagnostic flowchart? Does this sound like it is symptomatic of anything specific? I can think of a few things that might cause it:Restricted Air intake (No.) Restricted Exhaust (Just realized it from this article, so maybe.) Restricted Fuel flow? (I have no idea how I would diagnose this. I need to be able to measure current flow and compare it to projected flow.)Thanks for the help,Chris.

I listed a link to an on-line diagnostic help in my comment to 86suzuki directly below. It is close to s flow chart.About a month ago I worked on a chainsaw for a friend.

Two repair shops told him he almost certainly needed a new metering diaphragm in his carburetor. After I got into the saw I found the diaphragm was fine. The fuel in his saw's tank was more than a year old. After mixing fresh fuel and replacing the old fuel with it, the saw ran great. I mention that because yu never know exactly what you have until you get into the machine.By the way, this chainsaw did not develop full power at first. Then I opened the High circuit mixture screw just a little and it was fine.I would check everything in a logical order, and I would make certain there are no air leaks anywhere in the crankcase.